TACOS!
By Ellen Spear
Illustration By Leonard Kenyon
SIMPLE STREET FOOD, the taco as we know it, was named by Mexican silver miners after the paper-wrapped gunpowder they used as a charge in excavation. Originally filled with organ meat, the taco was meant to be an inexpensive, quick, and filling meal.
The taco arrived in the U.S. with Mexican migrants in 1905, where it was added to the repertoire of the so-called “Chili Queens” who slung enchiladas and chili to the locals. It wasn’t until 1920 that the organ meat went the way of all things, and the Americanized fillings including cheese, lettuce, ground beef, pork, and the other insides with which we are familiar, held sway.
Nominations for the best taco came from many quarters. My stomach gave out before my best intentions to try and sample all of the great suggestions did. Here are a few places to try.
Fiesta Bar and Grill
284 Main St., Bldg. II, Great Barrington
413-528-3343 • fiestabarandgrill.com
Seven taco offerings are available at this out-of-the-way place down the Mews in Great Barrington Center. Beautifully prepared Baja Fish Tacos arrived in a puffy shell with just the right crunch. Inside, the tilapia, though on the bland side, was nestled in melted cheese, a delicious and vinegary pico de gallo and chipotle cream. A hit of Cholula Hot Sauce, self-administered, elevated the tacos to the requisite burn level. As if three of these weren’t enough (they were), the plate comes with frijoles refritos and rice.
My dinner companion had the Oaxaca Tacos—bacon-wrapped shrimp, cheese, caramelized onions, cabbage, pico de gallo, and homemade chipotle cream. It was a beautiful plate and a satisfying dinner. The caramelized onions were an especially welcome accompaniment.
A well-made Margarita with a decent selection of tequilas, and a Mojito stuffed with mint topped off the experience.
Methuselah
391 North St., Pittsfield
413-347-2888 • methbar.com
I have to admit Methuselah’s tacos exceed- ed my expectations. One may order tacos any night of the week, but Methuselah offers an array of special taco nights, family taco nights, and specials.
Two Shrimp Tacos arrived with New Orleans-style seasoning, pickled red cabbage, avocado cream, and a great heap of cilantro. The red cabbage slaw elevated the crisp tacos to something memorable. The shrimp would have benefited from a little less time on the heat. They were a bit dry and really did depend upon the other taco accoutrements to bring them along. $12 for two and $22 for four seemed a bit steep, but the dish was really satisfying and the company at the bar was convivial, as was the live music.
Agaves Mexican Grill
389 Stockbridge Rd., Great Barrington
413-645-3281 • agavesgb.com
Agave was full at the relatively early dinner hour of 5:30 on a weeknight. The high-ceilinged restaurant makes it a bit hard to hear one’s dinner companion, and some construction work was being completed during service. Summer is coming!
Ten taco types are on the menu. Three come with every order, and your protein pick is topped with onions, hot sauce, and cilantro.
The dishes arrived with a double shell, keeping the wetter items from running down your arm. (Some, like me, however, believe this is part of the joy of tacos; others, like my companion, are thankful for the backup.)
Three Portobello Tacos had guajillo chiles, onions, peppers, fresh cilantro, and hot sauce filling. They had great heat, and the mélange of vegetables melded well. My dinner companion’s Carnitas were equally well-prepared. With an accompanying serv- ing of well-made guacamole, this was a satisfying meal, at $11 for three generous tacos.
Tito’s Pittsfield
34 Depot St., Pittsfield
413-344-4285 titosmexicangrill.restaurant
Tito’s, under the management of La Fogata, reopened in December. During an April visit, the restaurant had not yet received its liquor license. We are happy to report that it has been resolved, and you will be able to get a margarita with your tacos. Three Baja Fish Tacos arrived with red cabbage, pico de gallo and chipotle sauce, accompanied by refritos and rice. The fish here was very flavorful on its own—a first during this comparison eating—and the jalapenos woven in gave the tacos a great punch. The red cabbage was not pickled or treated in any way, making it more of a textural element than a taste-ual one, if you will. My dinner companion’s shredded chicken tacos topped with lettuce and shredded cheese were pronounced serviceable. It is easy to fill up on chips, salsa and guac before the main event, so pace yourself. $15.99 for three seemed reasonable given the portion size.
Others on my go-to list for tacos:
Chingón and Casita The just-opened Chingón is an ode to its taco truck roots, with a take-out window in the MASS MoCA courtyard. The same owners plan to open Casita in MASS MoCA’s Building 11 by July 1, featuring a full bar with inventive cocktails and an extensive food menu.
chingontacotruck.com
casitaberkshires.com
Coyote Flaco
505 Cold Spring Rd., Williamstown 413-458-4240 • on Facebook
Xicohtencatl
50 Stockbridge Rd., Great Barrington 413-528-2002 • xicohmexicano.com
Trés Niños Taqueria
20 Marshall St., North Adams 413-346-4000 • on Facebook
Did we not include your favorite tacos place? Email editorial@berkshiremag.com, and we will consider adding your suggestions to this story online.