A Feast for the Senses

A CURATED GUIDE TO DINING AND LIVE MUSIC

By Benjamin Lerner

From the pages of our Spring 2023 Issue.

JIMMY iENNER, JR.

Throughout the Berkshires, the culinary and live music scenes are converging in extraordinary ways. Cheerful taverns, luxe country inns, hip gastropubs, and high-end eateries offer phenomenal food and service, which is further enhanced by live musical performances. With so many fantastic options, choosing the perfect place to enjoy an unforgettable meal and live show may seem like a challenging proposition. Fear not! We have compiled a guide to some of the most popular and pleasurable restaurants and venues around. Get ready to savor some food, fun, and lighthearted revelry—a taste of the good life awaits.

STOCKBRIDGE & LENOX

Located on Main Street in the heart of Stockbridge, The Red Lion Inn has welcomed locals and visitors with marvelous food, tasty drinks, and warm, friendly service since before the Revolutionary War. The beloved 18th-century inn celebrates its 250th anniversary this year (see page 8), and it stands as an exemplary beacon of classic Berkshires hospitality. The Red Lion Inn’s multiple structures and outbuildings provide splendid accommodations. Its dining spaces are equally inviting. The Main Dining Room is open for breakfast, lunch, and dinner. Order up a bottle of your favorite vintage from their award-winning wine list, and luxuriate in the timeless magnificence of their New England-style fine dining cuisine.

For a more casual dining experience, Widow Bingham’s Tavern at The Red Lion Inn offers satisfying pub fare in a cozy setting. After tantalizing your tastebuds with a hearty sandwich or soup, pop into The Lion’s Den for a well-deserved nightcap. The Lion’s Den is open until 11 p.m., Wednesdays to Sundays, and performances are routinely held from 7 to 10 p.m. on Fridays and Saturdays. Patrons will find scrumptious entrées on their “Something More” menu from 5 to 8:45 p.m., such as Turkey Confit Croquettes and the Den Burger with their signature Lion sauce. The late-night menu serves up bar snacks, charcuterie platters, and chili, which pair nicely with a local craft beer or artisan cocktail.

Haley Heynderickx and The Westerlies performs at TOURISTS hotel. DOUG MASON

The Lion’s Den’s numerous live musical performances are curated by the gifted, Berkshire-based musician Johnny Irion. A versatile and virtuosic rock, blues, and folk musician, Irion has deep and longstanding ties to the creative scene in the Berkshires. He has collaborated with famed bands and creatives such as Wilco and Jeff Bridges, and Irion also has released multiple critically acclaimed collaborative projects with Sarah Lee Guthrie, daughter of renowned folk singer Arlo Guthrie.

Through his collaborative partnerships with The Red Lion Inn and the Apple Tree Inn in Lenox, Irion has been able to oversee a series of exciting and successful shows at both establishments. The Red Lion Inn and Apple Tree Inn not only have showcased Irion’s talents, they have also featured musicians and bands such as Robert De Leo from Stone Temple Pilots, Ian O’Neill from Deer Tick, The Sea The Sea, Brother Sal’s Blues Band, Snow Angel, and Hold on Honeys. “We’ve had some incredible people come to play, and the word is getting out that the room feels great to perform in,” Irion says of the recently renovated Lion’s Den.

Michelle Willis at The Lion’s Den, which offers a late-night menu from 8:45 to 11 p.m. JIMMY iENNER, JR.

When the stellar musicians and bands that Irion brings out to play in the Berkshires come to the Apple Tree Inn on Richmond Mountain Road in Lenox (across from Tanglewood), they greatly enjoy their stay. “The environment is conducive to creativity in all forms,” notes Irion. “A perfect evening at Apple Tree Inn is to have cocktails in the lounge, dinner in the beautiful restaurant, The Bellflower, and then enjoy some live music in The Ostrich Room with cocktails by the fire.” The Ostrich Room is an intimate and welcoming bar area at Apple Tree Inn, outfitted with a leather couch, antique furnishings, and a fireplace that provides warmth and comfort on cold evenings. Although the Apple Tree Inn and The Red Lion Inn both possess distinctive atmospheres and aesthetics, Irion believes that their respective performance spaces are superbly adaptable. “The energy is great in both rooms,” he adds. “There are often Saturday night concerts at both places, and my favorite thing to do is start my night off at The Lion’s Den and end up at the Apple Tree Inn. The performances in the Den start earlier than the performances at the Apple Tree Inn, so it works out perfectly.”

In downtown Lenox on Walker Street, Gateways Inn hosts regular jazz performances in its stately indoor space. The shows are not ticketed and are open to all guests who come to dine at Gateways. Live jazz is held from 6 to 9 p.m., and regularly featured acts include Wanda Houston, Benny Kohn, and John Wayno. The ornate and flourishing cadences of the music flawlessly complement the elegant architectural accents of Gateways’ historic Gilded Age estate. The music also blends congruently with the vibrant, yet nuanced, flavor of Gateways’ gourmet masterpieces.

Its kitchen program has reached new heights recently as a result of the tireless efforts of Executive Chef Jeremy Berlin. Berlin previously worked with Gordon Ramsay and honed his skills in the kitchens of vaunted culinary establishments such as New York City’s Fleur de Sel and Le Bernardin. Berlin describes the dining experience at Gateways as “fine dining in a casual atmosphere” and says that the menu combines European elements with a classic New England and Berkshire influence.

The appetizers, entrees, desserts, and featured drinks on Gateways’ menu shift on a seasonal basis, and the kitchen team incorporates market fresh ingredients and masterful culinary techniques in all of their dishes. Perennial favorites include their Chicken Breast, which is brined, cooked sous vide, and seared, and their Faroe Island Salmon Gravlax. “A lot of attention goes into all of our offerings,” says Berlin. “We like to take things a step beyond the norm and keep things interesting. There’s a lot of labor that goes into it, but it makes a noticeable difference in the guest’s experience.” The Gateways kitchen abides by rigorously high standards of quality and culinary discipline, but they offer a truly laid-back dining experience for their guests. “They come here on vacation and don’t want to spend time in a stuffy environment,” shares Berlin. “We try to provide them with food and service that is elevated, yet unpretentious and relaxed.”

Firefly on Church Street is another cherished landmark in Lenox’s hospitality scene. Their eclectic and seasonally shifting menu includes palatable dishes that incorporate elements of American, Mediterranean, and Asian gourmet traditions. Cocktail and draft beer selections are frequently updated, and Firefly’s bartenders are happy to recommend beverages that complement the flavors of every entrée and appetizer. Guests who come to Firefly can drink, eat, and laugh in their posh and urbane spaces, where rock, jazz, and blues bands routinely perform in all seasons. Some of the musical acts that bring their talents to Firefly include Misty Blues, BTUs, Hot Sauce, and Amy Ryan Band. “People come here to enjoy themselves,” says Firefly Manager Jane Blanchard. “Whether you’re 30 years old or 60 years old, you’re going to have a good time.”

NORTH ADAMS

Near the Harriman & West Airport on State Road in North Adams, TOURISTS offers excellent food and live entertainment in a tranquil setting on the banks of the Hoosic River. The property is home to numerous guest rooms and several dining and performance spaces, which are spread out between the main lodge building and an 1813 farmhouse. Guests who book a room at TOURISTS can enjoy breakfast, all-day snacks, and a wide selection of beverages from the comfort of their rooms or on the main lodge’s outdoor deck. TOURISTS’ in-house cocktail lounge and restaurant, The Airport Rooms, is situated in the farmhouse building. Chef Ty Hatfield’s tastefully curated assortment of small plates and entrees includes seasonally changing delicacies such as Island Creek oysters, Steak Bordelaise, and Vegetable Rigatoni. The Airport Rooms’ cocktail list is bold and original, and their beverage menu also features an extensive selection of European Amari, after-dinner digestifs, and several non-alcoholic wines and beers.

TOURISTS’ in-house cocktail lounge and restaurant, The Airport Rooms, is situated in an 1813 farmhouse building. @SIDNEYBENSIMON

Eric Kerns is one of the partners who played a pivotal role in the execution of the vision behind TOURISTS, and he shares that honor with Ben Svenson, Scott Stedman, and John Stirratt, a founding member of Wilco. According to Kerns, the contrasting aesthetics of the different food spaces lend themselves to creating flexible hospitality and entertainment experiences, which are well-suited to the tastes and preferences of both traveling vacationers and locals. “I think that people respond to our spaces because they are very human- scale,” he adds. “If you think of a typical hotel setting or culinary establishment, you tend to picture grand spaces with high ceilings. We have strived to create spaces that help people feel like they’re really being hosted in a human environment.”

To that end, TOURISTS hasn’t just gone above and beyond to create a hospitable setting for their dining and lodging guests— they have also provided a restorative haven for traveling musicians. Though TOURISTS might not seem like a natural spot for touring artists to perform in between high-stress gigs, its geographic location has played a central part in the development of their musical program. “We’re in a layover spot for a lot of tours,” says Kerns. “Artists and bands who have an empty day between shows in New York and shows in Burlington, Montreal, Boston, or Buffalo will come perform on nights when they don’t have bookings. We knew that touring musicians really need rest and support on the road, so we launched our ‘Sing For Your Slumber’ series when we opened in August 2018.”

Kerns explains that in exchange for staying at TOURISTS free of charge, a band or performer plays an intimate show at the hotel. This symbiotic exchange has led to fruitful partnerships with multiple artists, and TOURISTS has hosted over 100 “Sing For Your Slumber” shows over the past four years. “It’s rewarding for both the artists and the audience. There’s no stage, we don’t sell tickets, and the events are very modestly promoted. The audience is a blend of folks from the neighborhood and guests from the hotel.”

Kerns recalls spectacular shows where talented artists such as Rachel Price from Lake Street Dive performed Lucinda Williams and Carole King covers to a mesmerized audience. He remembers the shows that folk songstress Hayley Heynderickx performed at her artist residency with The Westerlies brass quartet in January 2022 with equal fondness. The Westerlies recently released their Live at TOURISTS recordings. “It was a very special experience,” says Kerns. As TOURISTS continues to build its following, Kerns is energized by the positive response from both returning guests and artists. “It’s incredibly gratifying to see word spread in the artistic community, and it’s wonderful to have bands build a night at TOURISTS into their tour schedule.”

On the grounds of the MASS MoCA campus, Club B10 hosts a broad range of performing arts events. Notable highlights include a variety of live music concerts that range from Hip-Hop and R&B to Spanish cabaret, and creative roundtable discussions with artists, authors, and influential intellectuals that are held as part of their continuing “In Conversation” series. Beer from Bright Ideas Brewing, spirits from Berkshire Mountain Distillery, and tempt- ing bar bites from the on-campus Lickety Split café are available throughout the performances. Patrons are also encouraged to visit one of North Adams’ numerous restaurants within walking distance of MASS MoCA, including 413 Bistro and Taproom on Main Street, which has a well-rounded menu that features flavorful dishes. The 413 Bistro and Taproom’s out- door concert series runs from the late summer to the early fall on their porch, creating an ambience of spirited merriment for all travelers and local residents who come to enjoy a night out in North Adams.

PITTSFIELD

A lively and resilient food and music scene is happening on North Street in Pittsfield. While dining at Berkshire Palate, guests will delight in the broad assortment of Italian, Spanish, and international fusion-style dishes, which range from Neapolitan flatbreads to diverse European and Asian tapas. Owner Paul Brassard also owns 413 Bistro & Taproom in North Adams, and he prides himself on providing exceptional service and food to his guests at both of his restaurants. Although the outdoor musical performances at 413 Bistro are limited by seasonal restrictions, Berkshire Palate hosts indoor musical performances throughout the year. “We’ve done a wide variety of musical performances,” notes Brassard. “Gina Coleman and Misty Blues have performed here, and Andy Wrba brought his jazz band here. We’re hoping to do jazz performances on a regular basis—at least a couple of nights a month.”

As president and founder of the Pittsfield-based musical nonprofit organization Berkshires Jazz, Ed Bride echoes Paul Brassard’s enthusiasm for Pittsfield’s jazz scene. He touts the talents of multiple Berkshires musicians and commends Wrba for his continuing efforts to keep the spirit of authentic jazz music going strong in the Berkshire region. “Andy Wrba curated the music scene at Mission for 12 years,” notes Bride. “After Mission closed, he took his performances on the move across Pittsfield and did different gigs throughout the city every Monday night.”

Further up on North Street, fans of well-balanced organic cuisine and remarkable craft cocktails will feel right at home at Methuselah. Owner and founder Yuki Cohen has created a kitchen program that makes artful use of locally sourced produce. Every sauce used at Methuselah, from their barbecue sauce to their salsa verde, is made in-house. “I feel very grateful to be able to run this business in Pittsfield,” says Cohen. “We have access to fresh ingredients and incredible purveyors, and we are able to provide high-quality food and cocktails to our customers at fair and reasonable prices.” Although guests who visit Methuselah on “Taco Tuesday” will arguably get the best bang for their buck, some of the most impressive dishes pay homage to Cohen’s Korean roots, including their Korean Bibimbap and Kalbi. Other standouts, such as their Kimchi Reuben, artfully integrate Korean ingredients, spices, and flavors into American and Mexican culinary staples in inventive and refreshing ways. Methuselah’s cocktail menu is equally diverse and adventurous. It features contemporary interpretations of Prohibition-era cocktail classics, such as Aviations and Bees Knees. One of Methuselah’s notable house cocktails is the “Berkshire Bramble,” which is made with Berkshire Mountain Distillery Gin and housemade blueberry syrup.

Methuselah hosts musical performances on Tuesdays and Saturdays are organized by skilled jazz guitarist Michael Junkins. “Michael has done a wonderful job of bringing jazz musicians and fantastic singer/songwriters to our venue,” says Cohen. “We’re so grateful for the music—especially the level of talent that we have seen so far.”

Music adds another dimension to the overall hospitality experience at Methuselah, she adds. “I always hope that people feel like they’ve been transported to another beautiful world when they come to Methuselah. The music definitely helps with that.”

During the daytime, those who wish to enjoy an energizing beverage or have brunch should head to nearby Dottie’s Coffee Lounge. Jazz and folk music performances are held at Dottie’s every Sunday from 10 a.m. to 12 p.m., and they also host occasional nighttime performances for acts and patrons who wish to lease the space for a live performance event.

Head to Bousquet Mountain Ski Area on Dan Fox Drive for live musical performances outside of the LIFT Bistropub during the warmer months. Previous summer concert series at Bousquet have brought live entertainment to the lift area at the base of the mountain on a weekly basis. In the past, a stage has been set up at the bottom of the mountain next to rows of Adirondack chairs and fire pits, and LIFT Bistropub remained open for guests who wished to enjoy a meal. Patrons who purchased all-access tickets could take in the show from the balcony at LIFT Bistropub, which provided wonderful views of the musical performances.

Oenophiles with a penchant for rural relaxation should make a beeline for Balderdash Cellars just over the Pittsfield town line, on State Road in Richmond. They are well known for their complex and high-quality white, red, and rosé wines, as well as their live, on-site music from acts such as Misty Blues, Gina Coleman, and Berkshire-based jazz musicians such as Benny Kohn. Guests can visit their tasting room on Friday, Saturday, and Sunday afternoons, and visitors are encouraged to bring their own food and snacks.

BARRINGTON & BEYOND

As one of the most popular performance venues in Berkshires, The Egremont Barn on Main Street in South Egremont stands as an enduring fixture of the regional creative scene. Visitors who flock to the well-attended shows and events at The Egremont Barn can enhance their experience with a beer, cocktail, or glass of wine from their on-site bar, or enjoy some bar bites or filling entrées while seated at one of their tables. (With the exception of parties of over 10 guests, reservations are not available for tables, and the tables at The Egremont Barn are open on a first-come, first-served basis.) Whether you’re coming to The Egremont Barn to participate in one of their popular karaoke or open mic nights, or taking in a performance of a talented musician or band such as Jackson Whalan, Grain Thief, or Billy Keane, you’ll find genuine service and a jolly, festive atmosphere.

South of Egremont, Race Brook Lodge in Sheffield offers visiting travelers a peaceful, bucolic respite from the hectic world beyond. In addition to a broad range of dreamy rooms and suites, their campus also houses the Stagecoach Tavern, which serves full-flavored American fare, first-class mezcal cocktails, and a vast selection of domestic and international beers and wines. Jazz brunches are hosted on Sundays throughout the year at the Stagecoach Tavern. A wide range of handpicked bands and musicians also per- form at the Down County Social Club, a speakeasy-style venue located directly below Stagecoach Tavern. Additional concerts in their barn space and special events such as poetry readings, multimedia shows, and dance events are held at Race Brook Lodge throughout the year, and prospective visitors should visit their stay up to date on future concerts through their social media pages.

Further north, the towns of Otis and Becket are home to multiple rustic roadhouses, each of which possesses its own distinct character and cultural ambience. At the Knox Trail Inn in East Otis, patrons will find toothsome appetizers and entrees such as fried pickles, Bavarian pretzels, specialty pizzas, cedar plank salmon, and grilled ribeye steak. The Knox also hosts a variety of fun events, such as live music shows, karaoke nights, and Keno. As a result of a recent restoration project, a new bar and banquet table have been installed, significantly improving the overall experience of visiting guests. “It feels good to know that we’ve been able to help build a place where people can enjoy themselves,” says the Knox Managing Partner Pete Sullivan.

In neighboring Becket, Route 8 Pub on Main Street stands in a building that houses a multifaceted array of businesses, including Becket General Store, Becket Liquors, and Canna Corner Dispensary. Casual pub fare, draft beer, mixed drinks, and sincere service await all who come to visit, and live musical performances and karaoke nights are held on Saturday nights throughout the year on a sporadically alternating basis. And watch out for the soft reopening of the storied Dream Away Lodge, which is under new ownership and expected to welcome patrons again in late spring. (Follow @BerkshireMagazine for updates.)

On Chester Road in Becket, Papa Bob’s specializes in hearty Italian entrées and American grill fare. In the summertime, their outdoor deck comes alive with a Tiki bar and live music by performers from the Berkshires and other areas of Massachusetts. Children of all ages and dogs are welcome on the deck, making Papa Bob’s the perfect destination for a family meal or outdoor summertime event in the eastern hills of the Berkshires.

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