COZY SPOTS AND COMFORT FOOD IN THE BERKSHIRES
Holiday 2023
By Scott Edward Anderson
THE DANISH LIFESTYLE CONCEPT, “HYGGE,” was all the rage almost a decade ago—and was nearly made the Oxford English Dictionary word of the year in 2016, losing out to “post-truth,” if you can believe that. Hygge, which the dictionary defines as a “quality of cosiness and comfortable conviviality that engenders a feeling of contentment or well-being,” actually pronounced “hoo-gah,” is closely related to the English word “hug” by way of the Old Norse, “hugga.” Its closest correlative in English, however, is probably “cozy,” which comes from another Norwegian root, “kose sig,” to make oneself comfortable. It’s clear the Scandinavians know a thing or two about snuggling in for a long winter’s night.
As the winter months in the Berkshires bring the holiday season, they also bring a desire for some of us to nestle indoors—to get cozy—perhaps after a day enjoying winter sports like skiing and snowboarding, skating, or snowshoeing. It’s a time to curl up in a corner by a fire with hot chocolates or hot toddies or enjoy a homestyle meal of “comfort food.”
Here at Berkshire Magazine, we’re no strangers to such wintertime desires. On one recent blustery, wet Saturday night, we took a drive to Race Brook Lodge at the foot of Mount Race in Sheffield. After parking, we made our way down a marked pathway and stepped into a dry, warm, and inviting barn for a live puppet show. The chilly rain slapped against the tall structure as we caught glimpses through the windows of heavy branches swaying, calling for attention. Inside, the laughter of children followed by a sing-along to “I’ll Fly Away” was as warming to the soul as the steaming hot tea in our mugs. After the performance, we found our way down to the Stagecoach Tavern and settled in next to a steadily burning fireplace, ordered a glass of malbec, and tucked into some comforting fare.
Feeling cozy now? There’s more. Lots more. We’ve compiled a list of some of the coziest spots in the region, where comfort food may be a form of “hygge cuisine”:
Stagecoach Tavern at Race Brook Lodge864 Undermountain Rd., Sheffield 413-229-2916rblodge.com/thestagecoachtavernWith its hand-hewn beams and wide plank floors, the Stagecoach Tavern brings you back in time. It’s been a cozy spot for weary travelers and locals for almost 200 years. Undermountain Road was a key route on the Hartford-Albany stagecoach run. Catch some live music and other performances and check out the grilled half chicken with duck fat fingerling potatoes, pole beans, grilled zucchini, and fried sage.
Tourists915 State Rd., North Adams 413-347-4995touristswelcome.comTouring musicians passing through the area are encouraged to sing for their slumber at Tourists in North Adams, a new take on the roadside motel. The Airport Rooms cocktail lounge and restaurant serves a roasted hanger steak with Romanesco, cauliflower, and chimichurri, as well as tri-tip steak frites, or you can grab a snack and plant yourself in the Lodge by the fireplace, which is open to all.
Bimi’s Canteen & Bar19 Main St., Chatham, N.Y. 518-938-1415bimiscanteen.comCheck out the cozy “speakeasy” bar downstairs with its exposed brick and enjoy contemporary American cuisine crafted from locally sourced ingredients. Bimi’s Cheese Shop next door provides a wealth of cheeses for its rotating slates. The shop serves breakfast and lunch all day—think grilled cheese, Raclette, soup, and homemade cookies. Indulge in the mulled cider and spiked (or not!) hot chocolate, wine, or beer. Special treat alert: Between 9 a.m. and 3 p.m., take your tasty snacks into the connecting dining room at Bimi’s Canteen, curl up, and enjoy! The restaurant opens for dinner at 5 p.m., serving up its five-cheese mac and cheese topped with toasted bread crumbs, tomato and green onion chutney, orecchiette pasta, traditional French seafood stew, and more. Salivating yet?
MoonCloud47 Railroad St., Great Barrington 413-429-1101mooncloudgb.comThe MoonCloud Lounge offers a warm and welcoming vibe, a place to enjoy its signature “citrus-driven” or “spirit-forward, boozy” cocktails, along with tapas-inspired snacks or tuck into one of its full-sized dinner Tagliere boards, consisting of meats, cheese, veggies, or tinned fished—or all of them combined.
Number Ten10 Castle St., Great Barrington 413-528-5244numbertengb.comIf “classic steak house” is your comfort-food love language, Number Ten is the place for you. Snuggle into the cozy booths made from reclaimed church pews or chill over classic cocktails and the self-proclaimed largest whiskey selection in the Berkshires at the antique mahogany bar.
Roe Jan Brewery32 Anthony St., Hillsdale N.Y. 518-303-8080roejanbrewing.comCare to venture across the Berkshire-Taconic line? Roe Jan Brewery in Hillsdale may be just the ticket. Housed in the restored 1851 Hillsdale Mercantile Association building and named for the Roeliff Jansen Kill—the river that runs through town—Roe Jan serves a variety of its hand-crafted beers, as well as wines and local ciders, alongside such comfort foods as mac and cheese bites and “Disco fries” (think melted cheddar and gravy—yum!). The specialty burgers, pulled pork sandwich, and wood-fired beer brats or smoky dogs are also worth the trip west down Route 23.
Pleasant & Main1063 Main St., Housatonic 413-274-6303pleasantandmain.comThe look and feel of a camp country store—note the canoe hanging upside-down from the ceiling—Pleasant & Main is a great spot for breakfast or brunch.Specialties include an open-faced breakfast croissant, sweet and savory French crêpes, and buttermilk or seasonal fruit pancakes topped with genuine Massachusetts maple syrup. Or try one of their seasonal weekly dinners for a cozy night’s respite.
Olde Forge Restaurant125 North Main St., Lanesborough 413-442-6797yeoldeforge.comThe Olde Forge (or Ye Olde Forge) has been serving Lanesboro and the surrounding area for over 40 years—and one look at the menu and you can see why: “Comfort food” could be Olde Forge’s middle name. Dipped chicken fritters, tater tots stuffed with bacon, cheese, sour cream and chives, and “fancy” macaroni and cheese—made with Gemelli pasta and Asiago cheese, shaved prosciutto, and fresh cream. Or perhaps you’d prefer shepherd’s pie or homemade chili? And don’t forget their award-winning wings.
Frankie's Ristorante Italiano80 Main St., Lenox 413-637-4455frankiesitaliano.comFamily-style Italian American food is about as comforting as it gets on a winter’s night (and it doesn’t have to be Wednesday to be spaghetti day). Frankie’s serves its fare on classic red-and-white checkered tablecloths under warm lighting. Its friendly staff will make you feel like you’ve come home to Mamma’s—even if your mother wasn’t Italian.
Bistro Zinc56 Church St., Lenox 413-637-8800bistrozinc.comA “modern French bistro,” Bistro Zinc is the perfect place to go if steak frites is your comfort jam—and why wouldn’t it be? The crispy goat cheese salad or fried oyster Caesar shows Zinc’s bistrotiers are not averse to putting a new twist on old faves.
Brava65 Church St. Lenox 413-637-9171bravalenox.com
Ombra27 Housatonic St.413-637-9171ombralenox.com”Open late in Lenox” is a virtue shared by Brava and its sister spot, Ombra, the latter of which is open even later. Located in the old Berkshire County Courthouse/Lenox Town House, Brava is the perfect stop for post-theater tapas or handmade pizza by the fireplace in the bar. Ombra also is a cozy nook to enjoy a fine glass of wine and a good time with friends.
Old Inn on the Green134 Hartsville-New Marlborough Rd., New Marlborough413-229-7924oldinn.comNestled in the old Berkshire village of New Marlborough (founded in 1738), the Old Inn was once the midway point on the Hartford-Albany stagecoach line. The large open fireplace in the dining room and Windsor chairs lend it an old tavern feeling. Locally sourced “nouvelle New England” dishes (think squab with foie gras flan and huckleberry sauce) share the menu with traditional favorites. Retire to the taproom for an after-dinner glass of port or other digestif, and you’re guaranteed to be cozy.
Freight Yard Pub & Restaurant1 Furnace St., Building 3, North Adams 413-663-6547freightyardpub.comMinutes from MASS MoCA, the Freight Yard is a family-owned-and-operated establishment that opened in 1992.Gourmet pub fare and a rotating selection of twelve craft beers on tap and some delightful dips like Buffalo chicken and spinach and artichoke, beside a toasty fireplace, tempt the weary gallery goer.
PUBLIC eat+drink34 Holden St., North Adams publiceatanddrink.comCasual American fare in a modern pub atmosphere, Public eat+drink is known for its burgers, Buffalo cauliflower, flatbreads, and a highly addictive fried chickpea appetizer. Save room for the mac and cheese made with pancetta, smoked gouda, and roasted tomatoes or the smoked miso pork tacos. There’s also chili and cheese bratwurst, oh my…!
Trail House Kitchen and Bar 896 State Rd., North Adams 413-412-1090trailhousekitchen.comThe sister and brother team of Coleen and Sean Taylor opened their first Berkshire restaurant (see Freight Yard Pub, above) in 1992 and launched the Trail House in 2018. Named for its location along the Mohawk Trail (Route 2), where Williamstown and North Adams meet, and the nearby Appalachian Trail, the Trail House caters to vegan and vegetarian diners, as well as those with allergy sensitivities. Or comfort yourself with mac and cheese topped with crispy Buffalo chicken or bacon and tomato, or fried chicken with maple bacon jam.
Trattoria Rustica27 McKay St., Pittsfield 413-499-1192trattoria-rustica.com An authentic, rustic Italian trattoria presided over by Pompeiian-born chef Davide Manzo. Exposed stone and brick combined to make it feel like old Naples and the wood-fired brick-oven dishes will warm your bones on a chilly winter’s night.
Hilltop Orchards508 Canaan Rd., Richmond 413-822-7334hilltoporchards.com Whether it’s apple cider donuts and warm cider with a cinnamon stick or tasting their fermented Johnny Mash cider with traditional New England recipes, cuddling up on the leather couch by the wood-burning fireplace is an enjoyable way to spend an afternoon. Tours provide an overview of the entire cider-making process—“grow-press-ferment-age-can”—at this artisanal cidery.
New Boston Inn Restaurant 101 North Main St., Sandisfield 413-258-4477 newbostoninn.comWith its claims to be the Berkshire’s oldest inn—serving travelers since at least 1737—the New Boston in Sandisfield serves its fare in the Colonial Pub (think such comfort foods as pot-roast, meatloaf, or its famous clam chowder) or hang out by the wood-burning stove in the gentleman’s parlor (ladies welcome, too).
The Frog 650 North Main St., Sheffield 413-229-9000sheffieldfrog.comRed leather banquettes by the fire beckon you to savor the Frog’s slow-roasted prime rib, roasted acorn squash filled with sausage, fennel, bell pepper, spinach, and parmesan, or shepherd’s pie Brunch at the Frog is also worth checking out on a chilly weekend.
Old Mill 53 Main St., South Egremont 413- 528-1421oldmillberkshires.comFor over 40 years, this renovated old grist mill has been serving seasonal, contemporary New England cuisine, with new takes on old traditions. Warm up with “Soup of Yesterday” or be adventuresome and try the crispy frog legs.The panko-crusted rainbow trout or panseared calves’ liver with caramelized onions and smoked bacon may redefine comfort food for you.
Red Lion Inn/Widow Bingham's Tavern/The Lion’s Den
30 Main St., Stockbridge413-298-5545redlioninn.comWidow Bingham’s Tavern, named for one of the Red Lion Inn’s original owners, is a rustic, family friendly establishment serving a modern approach to American classic dishes, including bouillabaisse and a roasted turkey dinner that will have you longing for Thanksgiving. The Lion’s Den downstairs is great for a drink and “Lion’s bites”—charcuterie, cheese boards, or crostini—while checking out the live music. (Note there is a cover charge added to your drink tab to support the performers.)
Amici Berkshires 5 Albany Rd., West Stockbridge413-232-5555This cozy spot in West Stockbridge lives up to its motto, “Come as our guest; leave as our amici.” Co-owner Octavio Nallin is usually on hand to greet you and the rest of the friendly and helpful staff make you feel like you’ve come home away from home. Try the wood-fired pizzas—the Tartufata topped with fresh mozzarella, arugula, prosciutto, and truffle oil is a favorite—and the Sicilian arancini appetizer (rice balls stuffed with mozzarella for the uninitiated), as well as some classic Italian favorites like eggplant or chicken parmigiana, or pasta dishes made with house-made sauces, such as the truffle cream sauce on the fettucine alla Boscaiola, with sauteed mushrooms and sausage.
The Barn Kitchen & Bar 103 Spring St., Williamstown 978-784-7602thebarnwilliamstown.comThe warm and welcoming dining space features soft seating, communal tables, and locally sourced products wherever possible. The three-cheese fondue made with brie, cheddar, and goat cheese is a new take on an old comfort staple. And the roasted half duck with soba noodle salad and an orange gastrique (a sweet and sour sauce made from caramelized sugar deglazed with vinegar) is The Barn’s tasty twist on duck l’orange.
Firehouse Cafe & Bistro 47 Park St., Adams 413-776-7121firehousecafe.netThis restaurant in the heart of Adams is an inviting, cozy place to visit, and the food is equally impressive. They've brought the traditional flavors of the Mediterranean for everyone to enjoy.Firehouse adds its own unique twist to authentic dishes people love. So settle into this warm environment and enjoy the great food!
Don't see your favorite cozy spot? Let us know! Email editorial@berkshiremag.com, and we’ll consider adding your suggestions to this story online.
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