Savory & Sweet
ESTEEMED CHEFS OF OUR REGION’S RESTAURANTS SHARE DELECTABLE RECIPES FOR THE FALL
By Anastasia Stanmeyer
We asked several chefs throughout the Berkshires to share their recipes of something savory and something sweet to match the beauty of the Berkshires during this fall season. They include Southfield Store Pastry Chef Mel Rabineau, Canyon Ranch Executive Chef Julien Ardouin, Kripalu Executive Chef Steve Sherman, Miraval Berkshires Executive Chef Chef Justin Taylor, and Mezze Hospitality Group chefs Nicholas Moulton and Zach Clermont.
Pastry Chef Mel Rabineau, The Southfield Store
Mel Rabineau recently became pastry chef at The Southfield Store. He worked as pastry assistant at Kismet in Los Angeles, and then line cook/pastry assistant at Lil Deb’s Oasis in Hudson, New York. He went on to be head pastry chef at The Maker Hotel in Hudson and then line and prep cook at Rivertown Lodge and Casa Susanna in Leeds, New York.
Steve Sherman has been with Kripalu in Lenox for ten years serving in a variety of roles on the Dining and Food Services team. He became executive chef at Kripalu in July 2022, bringing his culinary creativity to Kripalu from some of the finest restaurant kitchens in the Northeast.
Julien Ardouin is Paris-trained in two Michelin-Star restaurants and has held positions as Line Cook and Chef de Partie in charge of fish at the Ritz Paris before working at the Mandarin Oriental Paris as chef saucier and sous-chef. In 2013, Julien became executive chef at the Church Street Café, followed by Alta Restaurant and Wine Bar before being recruited to Canyon Ranch in 2018.
Justin Taylor has been the executive chef at the Miraval Berkshires since September 2021 and has spent the better half of the last decade working for Hyatt hotels. He’s had the privilege to work in the Caribbean as the executive chef at the Park Hyatt St. Kitts and in Los Angeles as the executive chef at the Andaz West Hollywood as well as executive sous chef at Andaz 5th ave. Before Hyatt, Chef Justin spent years working in New England and NYC, from the Mandarin Oriental NYC to Nantucket’s Toppers at the Wauwinet, and beyond. He is a graduate of the Culinary Institute America. (Look for Miraval Resorts’ newest cookbook, Recipes for A Life in Balance, to be released November 1.)
Zach Clermont is chef of the newly open Bluebird & Co. in Hancock, the newest concept from Mezze Hospitality Group. Born and raised in Pownal, Vermont, Zach previously cooked at SoLo Farm & Table, South Londonderry Vermont & Honeypie, in Jamaica Vermont. He is a graduate of the New England Culinary Institute.
Nicholas Moulton has been executive chef of Mezze Bistro + Bar since 2014 and is co-owner of Mezze Restaurant Group. A graduate of the Culinary Institute of America in Hyde Park, New York, he has been a guest chef at the James Beard Foundation since 2010 and presented Mezze Restaurant Group’s first solo dinner at the Beard House in 2015. He was previously head chef at Public Eat + Drink in North Adams.
THE RECIPES
Pastry Chef Mel Rabineau of The Southfield Store, 163 Norfolk Rd., Southfield
BUCKWHEAT APPLE PIE
Pie Crust ingredients:
400 grams all-purpose flour
175 grams buckwheat
15 grams sugar
8 grams salt
396 grams butter
57 grams cream cheese
85 grams ice water
15 grams white or apple cider vinegar
1 egg
Cream Demerara sugar
Brown Butter Bourbon Filling ingredients:
1,315 grams/roughly
5 or 6 whole apples
230 grams butter
1 tbsp cinnamon
1 tsp cardamom
108 grams sugar
174 grams brown sugar
3 grams salt
7 grams miso
4 ½ tbsp cornstarch
1 cup orange juice
2 ½ tbsp bourbon
Instructions:
Day 1: Make the crust
Start by cutting your butter and cream cheese into small cubes and put in the fridge.
Measure out your dry ingredients (all-purpose flour, buckwheat, sugar and salt) into the bowl of a standing mixer fitted with a paddle attachment. Mix on low speed allowing the paddle to mix and add air into the flour.
After a couple minutes, start slowly adding your butter and cream cheese into the dry mixture on low speed, adding a small handful at a time.
Once all your butter and cream cheese is added, quickly mix your ice water, vinegar, and egg together. You can mix your water and vinegar ahead of time, but don’t add your egg until the last minute or the vinegar will cook it.
When your butter has broken down into roughly pea-sized chunks, start streaming in your liquid mixture. Mix only until dough forms, careful not to overmix. There should still be visible chunks of butter dispersed throughout the dough. The amount of liquid you use might vary depending on the brand of flour you are using, so add slowly. You want a dough that clumps together easily without flour flaking off, but it should not be too wet or sticky either.
Turn the dough out of the mixer and shape into a cylindrical shape and wrap in plastic. If you are short on time, you can use after four hours, but letting it sit overnight will allow the flours to fully hydrate, making the dough easier to work with.
Make the filling:
Peel half of your apples to allow for some textural contrast. Cut into small cubes and set aside.
In a heavy bottom pot, add your butter over medium heat. Cook until brown; you’ll be able to smell the caramelization. Once the butter is brown, add your spices and swirl in the pan to toast, then add your apples. Make sure apples are coated with butter and spices, then add sugars, salt, and miso. Mix until apples are evenly coated, then cook on low heat until softened but not mushy. In a small bowl mix your cornstarch and orange juice to create a slurry. Add this to your apple mix and cook until mixture thickens, stir- ring constantly to avoid scorching. Turn the heat off and add in your bourbon and mix. Remove filling from the pot and store in a container with plastic wrap pressed on the surface. Place in the fridge until fully cooled. If it is still warm, it will melt the butter in the crust and the pie will fall apart.
Day 2: Cut your pie cylinder in half and roll both sides out to roughly 10-inch circles. Place one side into your pie tin so that it is centered, and press crust into the sides and bottom to remove any air pockets. Put your cooled filling into the crust. It should create a mound that reaches just above the rims of the tin. There may be a bit extra; save in your fridge for a small galette or as an ice cream topping. Place a few cubes of butter on top of the pie filling in your crust and then set the other side on top. Using your thumb and index finger, go around the perimeter of the pie and press the top and bottom layers together. Using a pizza cutter or knife, trim so that the crust is about 1 inch wider than the tin. Continuing to use your thumb and index finger, roll edge of the crust under itself and press onto edge of your pie tin, creating a rim. Dip your fingers in flour as needed to keep them from sticking. Once you have a rim around the whole tin, use your fingers to crimp all the way around.
This will keep the edges from caving in while baking. Everyone has their own crimping style and if it is your first time, I suggest watching some tutorials to decide which one speaks to you. (Roxana Jullapat of Friends & Family has some great ones on her Instagram page.) Once your pie is filled and crimped, use a pastry brush to cover entire top crust in cream. (Make sure to get all the nooks and crannies.) Then sprinkle generously with demerara sugar and a big pinch of maldon salt. Cut four small slits around the center of the pie and place in the freezer to set overnight.
Day 3: Set your oven to 400 degrees. Place your frozen pie in the oven and bake for 15 minutes. Bring the temperature down to 350 degrees, turn and bake for another 15 minutes. If your crust is starting to look too brown at this point, you can cover with a layer of aluminum foil. Bring temperature down to 325 degrees and bake until you can see the filling bubbling through the slits, another 20/30 minutes or so, depending on your oven. Once you can see the filling bubbling, the pie is done. Remove from the oven and set on a cooling rack. Allow to cool fully before slicing. (This will create more solid slices. If you want it warm you can put it back in a 300-degree oven for a few minutes.) Slice and serve with whipped cream or your favorite ice cream.
Chef Mel Rabineau of The Southfield Store, 163 Norfolk Rd., Southfield
SEARED GREEN BEANS WITH FRIED GARLIC SESAME CONDIMENT
Ingredients:
½ pound green beans
Condiment:
1 cup garlic, peeled
1 cup canola oil
¼ cup tahini
2.5 cups sesame seeds, toasted
¼ cup to start (more to adjust for taste) lemon juice
1 tbsp sesame oil
1 tsp (adjust for taste) salt
herbs
citrus segments
Instructions:
Blanch green beans quickly in very salty water. You are going to cook them a second time, so be careful not to over-blanch or they will come out mushy. Drop into an ice bath to cool and set aside.
Toast sesame seeds in the oven on low heat until evenly browned. Set aside.
Start by peeling the garlic. It might take a while, but it is worth it to use fresh and not pre-peeled or minced garlic. Pulse in your food processor until broken down into small pieces but stop before it starts to form a paste. Put your minced garlic in a heavy saucepan with the canola oil and set on medi- um heat. Fry until garlic turns light brown, stirring occasionally. Should take roughly 10-15 minutes, but make sure to keep an eye on it. It takes quite a while to start browning but then burns quickly. Once your garlic is evenly browned, strain the oil from the solids.
Place the fried garlic in a blender with your tahini, salt, lemon juice and half the sesame seeds. Slowly stream in your strained garlic oil until it reaches your desired consistency. It won’t get totally smooth, but it should emulsify. Remove from blender and fold in your remaining sesame seeds. Adjust salt and acid to taste.
Heat a heavy pan until very hot. Add some oil and then drop your blanched green beans. Once the outside starts to blister, take them out of the pan and into a bowl. Toss with your garlic sauce, adding more lemon juice and salt as needed. Garnish with mint, dill, and citrus segments.
The amount of sauce is more than what you will use for the half-pound of green beans. Use liberally and save the rest for other applications, such as roasting potatoes and root vegetables, as well as dressing salads. Refrigerate the remaining sauce and use it up within a week.
Executive Chef Julien Ardouin of Canyon Ranch Lenox, 165 Kemble St., Lenox
PUMPKIN CRUNCH
Prep time: 1 hour;
Serves 35 (1 oz)
Pumpkin crunch is great to take with you on a hike or to have as an in-between meal snack. It is also delicious on yogurt for breakfast.
Ingredients:
1 pound pumpkin seeds
1 tsp ground cinnamon
3/4 tsp nutmeg powder
½ tsp ground allspice
3/4 tsp salt
2.5 tbsp maple syrup
1 lb dried cranberries
Instructions:
1. Combine pumpkin seeds, cinnamon, nutmeg, allspice, salt, and maple syrup In a bowl and mix until combined.
2. Pour out onto a lightly oiled sheet pan and bake in a 350 degrees oven for 30 minutes, stirring every 5 minutes.
3. Remove from oven and allow to cool.
4. Once cooled, break apart in large pieces.
5. Mix in dried cranberries.
6. Enjoy!
WILD MUSHROOM BOARD
Prep time 30 minutes; Cook time 30 minutes; Serves 4
MUSHROOM MOUSSE
Ingredients:
2 oz Porcini or others wild mushroom chopped
½ tbsp shallots chopped
1 garlic cloves, chopped
1 tbsp lemon juice
1 tbsp sunflower seed
1 tbsp walnut
2 tbsp olive oil
3/4 oz tofu
½ tsp tamari
¼ tsp Dijon mustard
¼ tsp tarragon
ROASTED WILD MUSHROOMS
Ingredients:
½ pound wild mushroom mix
2 tsp olive oil
1 oz parmesan
Salt
Pepper
Fresh thyme
Instructions:
1. Finely chop the mushroom, shallots garlic and cook low heat until all liquid has evaporated. Chop seeds and walnut. In the food processor, add cooked mushroom, tarragon, seeds, nuts, tofu, tamari, and mustard. Drizzle olive oil. Serve with crackers of your choice.
2. Clean and cut your mushroom. Mix the mushroom with the oil, salt, pepper, thyme, parmesan. On a sheet tray sprayed with olive oil, dispose the mushroom on a single layer. Roast in the oven at 400 degrees until mushroom are crispy.
Executive Chef Steve Sherman of Kripalu Center for Yoga & Health, 57 Interlaken Rd., Stockbridge
GINGER CINNAMON BAKED APPLES
Ingredients:
2 apples, halved and cored
2 tsp ghee
½ cup chopped walnuts
1 tbsp raisins
2 tbsps maple syrup
½ tsp cinnamon
½ tsp cardamom
1 tsp ginger, minced, or ó teaspoon dry ginger root
Pinch of nutmeg
Pinch of allspice
Pinch of sea salt
Instructions:
1. Preheat oven to 350 degrees. Halve the apples the short way and remove the core in both the tops and bottoms, preserving as much of the flesh as possible. Toss the apple halves with 1 teaspoon of the ghee and arrange in a 2-inch deep glass baking dish.
2. Spread chopped walnuts on a small baking sheet and toast in oven for 6 to 8 minutes, or until they are golden brown. Set aside to cool. Keep oven on.
3. Combine the rest of the ingredients in a small mixing bowl with the remaining 2 teaspoons of ghee. Mix in raisins and walnuts. Stuff each apple with two tablespoons of the mix, cover with foil, and bake for 10 minutes. Remove foil and bake for an additional 4 to 5 minutes, until the apples are soft but still hold their shape.
4. Serve warm.
VEGAN SQUASH SOUP
Serves 4
Ingredients:
2 tbsps Earth Balance
1 small Spanish onion, medium diced
1 tsp cinnamon
½ tsp salt
4 cups butternut squash, peeled and cut in large cubes
4 cups vegetable stock
2 tbsps maple syrup (optional)
Instructions:
1. In a large, thick bottomed soup pot, heat the Earth Balance and sauté the onion for 5 to 8 minutes, until it begins to brown.
2. Add cinnamon and salt and stir to coat onions with spice.
3. Add the squash, stir to combine, and sauté for another 5 minutes.
4. Add stock and turn up heat. Cover pot, bring to a boil, and reduce to medium heat. Cook for 15 to 20 minutes. If stock boils away, add more to cover the squash.
5. When squash is soft, puree with an immersion or traditional blender.
6. Add maple syrup if using.
7. Return to soup pot and adjust seasonings as desired.
Executive Chef Justin Taylor of Miraval Berkshire Resort & Spa, 55 Lee Rd., Lenox
PETITE FILET WITH CRANBERRY DEMI
Ingredients:
1 pound organic chicken wings
1 tbsp avocado oil
2 large shallots, large dice
1 carrot, peeled, large dice
1 tsp sugar, turbinado
2 tbsp red wine vinegar
2 cups, cabernet sauvignon
2 quarts beef bone broth, unsalted
1 bouquet garni, (a bundle of fresh thyme, parsley, bay leaf)
½ tsp whole black peppercorns
½ cup, dried cranberries
4 each, 5 oz prime beef tenderloin filets
Instructions:
1. Heat a 4-quart enameled cast iron pot (Le Creuset or Staub or any heavy bottom 4-quart stainless pot) on medium-high heat and pan roast the chicken wings with oil until deeply golden brown.
2. Reduce the heat and remove the chicken wings onto a wired rack.
3. In the same pan add the shallots and carrots.
4. Sauté on medium-low heat for 3-5 minutes, stirring to pick up the chicken bits or “fond” in the pan.
5. Add the sugar and vinegar and simmer for 1 minute.
6. Add the red wine and cook to reduce by half.
7. Add the roasted chicken wings back to the pan.
8. Add the bone broth, bouquet garni, and peppercorns, and bring the liquid to a simmer.
9. Simmer on low heat for 5 hours, skimming with a ladle periodically to remove any fat or impurities rising.
10. Strain everything through a fine chinois into a smaller pot and simmer the strained liquid on low heat until it’s reduced to a sauce-like consistency (or able to coat a spoon).
11. Strain once more. Allow to sit warm while you cook the steak.
12. Season and cook your steaks in a sauté pan or grill to medium rare or preferred temperature. For a home cook, we recommend using a thermometer and cooking the steak to 125 degrees and allowing to “rest” for 5 minutes until serving. It will continue to cook as it sits.
13. Taste your sauce for seasoning and finish with a little butter whisked in if desired. It will give more shine.
14. On a warm platter, slice steaks and generously pour the sauce around them.
15. Serve with grilled green vegetable of choice and or puree (parsnip, potato, cauliflower).
VEGAN SNICKER BARS
Servings: 12
Tools: Small sheet pan (¼ size), mixing bowl, food processor
Dough Ingredients:
1 cup almond flour
⅓ cup coconut oil
½ tsp sea salt
¼ tsp vanilla extract
½ cup maple syrup
1 ½ tsp ground flax seed
Caramel Ingredients:
12 Medjool dates, pitted
⅓ cup coconut oil
½ cup maple syrup
⅓ cup natural peanut butter 1 pinch of sea salt
Topping Ingredients:
Chopped peanuts to cover
⅔ cup dark chocolate
Instructions:
Mix dough ingredients together in a bowl to form a dough.
Press into a quarter sheet pan (spray with nonstick spray) and bake for 15 minutes at 325°F.
Allow to cool completely before finishing.
Process caramel ingredients in a food processor to make a caramel. (Work in batches to achieve the smoothest caramel.)
Spread a third of the caramel mixture along the bottom of the baked crust.
Sprinkle the chopped peanuts on top of this and then spread the remaining caramel over.
Cover with melted chocolate and freeze before cutting into 1” by 1.5” rectangular pieces (or whatever size you prefer).
Executive Chef Nicholas Moulton of Mezze Bistro + Bar, 777 Cold Spring Rd., Williamstown
HERITAGE PORK AND BEEF BOLOGNESE
Serves 4 to 6 portions
Ingredients:
1 pound ground pork
1 pound ground beef
1 large can whole, peeled San Marzano tomatoes, squeezed with hands
1 tbsp tomato paste
I small onion, diced
1 small carrot, diced
1 stalk small diced celery
12 cloves minced garlic
Create a bouquet garni of:
4 bay leaves, 4 sprigs thyme,
1 sprig rosemary (tie with butcher’s twine)
1 tbsp chili flake
1 pint whole milk
1 pint dry red wine salt and pepper to taste grapeseed oil (or any neutral oil)
extra virgin olive oil
Instructions:
1. In a large, heavy based pan, season the meat. Then brown in grapeseed oil or any neutral oil over high heat. As the meat browns, strain off excess fat.
2. After all the meat is cooked, add a cup of olive oil and add all vegetables to the pan, cook until soft, which is usually about 15 minutes.
3. Add tomato paste to the vegetables and cook for an additional 5-10 minutes.
4. Add milk to the pan and reduce by half. Then, add wine to the pan and reduce by half.
5. Add the crushed tomatoes, bouquet garni and chili flakes, bring to a simmer.
6. Season generously with salt and cook over low-medium heat for 2 hours. Remove herb bundle and allow to cool slightly.
7. Finish the sauce with additional salt and pepper to taste, and one last glug of extra virgin olive oil.
8. Serve with your favorite pasta or over Berle Farm’s polenta.
Chef Zach Clermont of Bluebird & Co., 137 Brodie Mountain Rd., Hancock
SEA SALT CHOCOLATE CHIP COOKIES
Makes 27 cookies
INGREDIENTS PART A
170.3 grams unsalted butter at room temperature
150 grams white sugar
165 grams brown sugar
1 ½ tsp vanilla extract
1 ½ eggs
Equipment & Method / Part A
To scale in grams, use a kitchen scale and tare out your mixing bowl by weighing it, then tare to zero. Each time you add an ingredient you can re-tare your scale to zero. If this sounds confusing, practice with water or baking beans until you feel comfortable.
Using a cream paddle of a stand mixer (or by hand) cream together the ingredients of PART A until they are pale yellow.
INGREDIENTS PART B
270 grams all-purpose flour
3⁄4 tsp baking soda
1/4 tsp baking powder
3/4 tsp salt
262.5 grams chocolate chips
Equipment & Method / Part B
If you’d like, you can scale the dry ingredients out in advance, this way, when its time to add you can just mix them into your bowl with the creamed butter & sugar.
Once you’ve formed the cookies, freeze them overnight before baking off.
You can bake them off as you wish to enjoy them at 375 degrees for 8-10 minutes, until the top is golden and the dough has cooked through to your desire of gooeiness.